Kasbah des Udayas: a city within a city
Despite its status as Morocco’s Capital or its long history, Rabat’s radiance pales in front of the exotic flair of Marrakesh, Fez, or Chefchaouen. Yet, its Kasbah des Udayas – a city within the city – is so unique that it amply compensates the interested visitors and justifies a detour.
This historic district started as a citadel (hence, “Kasbah”) in the 12th century, during the era of the Almohad Caliphate. It was built at a strategic location – the tip of the peninsula that, on one side, oversees the Atlantic Ocean and, on the other, faces the mouth of the almost unnavigable River Bou Regreg – the combination allowing the castle to effectively defend the Caliphate from pirates and other aspiring invaders. This became the foundation of Rabat itself – “ribat”, meaning fortress-monastery – and later gave its name to the country’s future capital.
The great Almohad Gate Bab Oudaia
Over the years, the town was reconstructed, enhanced, and improved, reaching its peak during the reign of Sultan Yacoub al Mansour, the third Almohad Caliph, who, among other things, built there a palace and a mosque (the oldest mosque in Rabat) that survive to this day. Despite all these developments, the town declined and was finally deserted after the Sultan’s death, losing its strategic importance and waning into oblivion. However, it was revived in the 17th century when the Moors who were evicted from Catholic Spain found refuge amidst the old alleys, built their famous Pirates’ Tower, and became the Barbary corsairs, on a mission to avenge the Muslims from the relentless persecution of Christendom.
Today, Kasbah Al Udayas flourishes as a precious attraction in Rabat. It is home to a couple of thousands of people who permanently reside within its walls, many trendy cafes and art galleries, the 12th-century mosque and the elegant Andalusian Gardens. Its Plateforme du Sémaphore (its highest point) attracts locals and foreigners alike who relax with a cup of Moroccan tea, mesmerising at the view of the river flowing into the sea and the murmur of the waves lapping on the shore.
The large Almohad gate of Bab Oudaia, built in 1195, still greets the visitors, though it is rarely open, and one usually enters via another gateway. If in a hurry, take Rue Jamaa that leads straight to the Mosque and the Plateforme du Sémaphore. However, it is preferable to amble aimlessly for a while through tiny alleys of whitewashed buildings and Mediterranean blues (a mini blue city in itself), enjoying the flower pots lined up next to the walls, the beautiful doors that decorate most of the abodes, and the overall ambience of bygone times.
Photo credits: © Konstantina Sakellariou
