One of the cutest stories I have ever heard
St. Stephen’s Green is the largest public park in the centre of Dublin. Its winding alleys, ponds, and biodiversity are, as anticipated, a source of joy and relaxation for Dubliners and visitors alike; yet, the park’s past is so tightly intertwined with the city’s evolution that a stroll through its pathways ultimately offers a journey down the Irish history lane.
Until the mid-17th century, the plot that now comprises St Stephen’s Green was merely a large common, used for the grazing of the animals. In 1664, though, it was included in the urban planning, turning into a park accessible only by the upper-class citizens, surrounded by prime-location residences and administrative buildings. Its design underwent several changes, the largest taking place at the end of the 19th century, when Sir Arthur Guinness (member of the famous beer-brewing family) supported the idea of opening the park to the public and paid for the present layout (his statue on one of the park’s sides commemorates this event). Other historical references include: the Fusiliers’ Arch that pays tribute to the Royal Dublin Fusiliers who died in the Second Boer War (the clashes of the British Empire with South Africa); the memorial of the Great Famine (an amazing work of art by the sculptor Edward Delaney) that reminds of some of the country’s darkest days; and statues of renowned Irish political and literary figures, like Robert Emmet, Theobald Wolfe Tone, or James Joyce, to name but a few.
Sir Arthur Guinness (Lord Ardilaun) statue, and the Royal College of Surgeons in the background.
Fusiliers’ Arch
The names of the fusiliers killed during the war (under the arch).
The “Famine”
Theobald Wolfe Tone
Robert Emmet
The most recent event, though, with which the park has been associated was the Easter Rising (an armed insurrection of the Irish against the British), which took place during the Easter week of 1916. Trenches were dug throughout St Stephen’s Green, from where the Irish fighters attacked the British army: a plan of action that proved to be unsuccessful, since the British opened fire on the rebels from the vantage point of Shelbourne Hotel (on one of the side streets of the park), forcing them to retreat after a couple of days to the College of Surgeons (on one of the other side streets surrounding the Green). The retreat itself was very challenging due to the continuous shooting from the British and the poor positioning of the Irish who offered a clear target. The insurgents had to rally at the statue of Lord Ardilaun (Sir Arthur Guinness), hide behind it, and time their run to the side entrance of the Royal College of Surgeons (35 metres away) with the changing of spent machine gun magazines (which lasted each time only a few seconds).
It is during the Easter Rising that the cutest story connected to the park unfolded. Despite the intense fighting, there was a cease-fire at 10 am every day, during which the park keeper, James Kearney, would enter the Green to feed the ducks! It is inspiring that, amidst this adversity, there was space in the hearts of all fighters for the distressed waterfowls. And it is encouraging to remember that, small and fragile as we may be, we are also capable of great love, and we can be remarkably creative in expressing it.
Photo credits: © Konstantina Sakellariou