On the Pilgrims’ Trail of Malta

Despite its tiny size and arid land, Malta boasts a fascinating heritage, from its Neolithic mega-builders who have bequeathed us some of the oldest, still-standing temples in the world, to the numerous conquerors who, for over 5,000 years, have been forging the history and identity of the island much more than the locals ever managed to do by themselves. Although Valletta, Birgu, and Mdina, with their medieval and renaissance glory, usually monopolise the attention of all visitors, it is by venturing into the countryside that one can recall – and rediscover – the diversity of the island’s adventurous past. Such is the case along the Pilgrim’s Trail – otherwise known as the Old Roman Road or the Xemxija Heritage Trail (I dare you to pronounce the last one correctly!) – where one can collect precious remnants of ancient civilisations within the course of a few hundred metres.

The trail starts from Xemxija Bay on the north, which, besides being one of the few natural harbours on this part of the island, is also famous as Apostle Paul’s shipwreck site (at around 60 AD), as well as the ending point of the Great Siege’s last engagement (in 1565) where the Ottoman army suffered its final, blood-soaked defeat.

Xemxija Bay on a sunny winter day. The anarchy of the construction on the left shows the unfortunate urban development of the area.

The legend surrounding Apostle Paul’s shipwreck left an indelible mark on the Maltese psyche as the three-month-long sojourn of the Saint on the island was enough to convert everyone to Christianity, allowing the locals to claim apostolic origins for their faith. The story goes that Apostle Paul was on his way to Rome to attend his trial when a ferocious gale forced his ship off track and onto the shores of Malta (the exact location is considered to be Selmunett: a tiny islet at the entrance of Xemxija Bay). When the Saint stepped on the coast, he attempted to light a fire and was bitten by a viper hiding amongst the wood. However, not only was he not affected by the venom (provoking the admiration of the islanders), he even managed to cure the local leaders’ ailing father, thus gaining the fame of a god-sent healer. He remained on the island for three months, attending to the sick, and teaching, along the way, the word of the Christian God to the pagans.

The profundity of this conversion to Christianity was such that the Roman influence (with their respective gods) or the Arab presence (with Islam) have been conveniently overlooked over time, perhaps because the last 500 years of the island’s history have been written by devout knights who had turned Christianity into the epicentre of their existence. Despite the undeniable presence and influence of other religions, including details like that the word “god” in the Maltese dialect is “Alla”, Malta remains to this day a catholic stronghold, somewhat on the conservative side when compared with other European countries. These apostolic origins become even more intriguing when the very spot of the Saint Paul’s shipwreck is put under scrutiny, often estimated to be closer to the Ionian islands of Greece rather than Malta itself. The accuracy behind the legend, though, is irrelevant – as is the case with every myth: it is the beliefs, not the events, that ultimately define the people.

Back to the trail: this path existed long before the Romans, as it becomes evident by the archaeological finds on the hill. However, the Romans left their visible touch in the road’s construction, since they were regularly transferring local products and salt through that route. At the same time, pilgrims were using the trail on their way to Our Lady’s Sanctuary in Mellieha, in fulfilment of a vow – hence one of the path’s names today. Although there are maps to help any impromptu explorer – Malta has done an astounding job organising and promoting its treasures – the pathway is straightforward and clear, while the points of interest are well marked, so anyone can venture without much preparation in advance. Join me as we stop in front of some of the most fascinating sites that shed light onto Malta’s lesser-known history.

The first thing one notices is the precision in the path’s construction, especially the kerbing at the edges. The stones are still the original ones – around 2,000 years old – cut from a local query in rectangular or square shapes. A channel is cut alongside the trail to collect the rainwater, while the uphill turn has been beautifully crafted to be smooth and wide for the travelling carts. The road bears grooving marks to help the animals find a better grip, while, at other places, there are crosses etched on the rocks along with remains of chains, carried by the pilgrims as a sign of their piousness.

The ancient road: the stones on the sides dating to the Roman era.

Crosses and chains on the trail.

Our next stop is a huge rock which could go unnoticed as a point of interest, were it not for a sign that helps us gain further insight. The presence of this menhir by the side of the road remains a mystery, but it is believed that it is related to the Neolithic civilisation that flourished on the island and used such massive, standing stones, one next to the other, to create circular or semi-circular temples. There are no other remains of such a structure in the proximity, except for this precious megalith, the rest of the stones possibly pillaged by the people over the centuries, to be used in other constructions.

The menhir.

Caves are bountiful on this hill, serving for centuries until relatively recently, as adobes or storage facilities. The first one on the path is known as “the Cave of the Galley,” possibly used as a tomb from the Neolithic up to the Roman era. The rectangular doorway is rather impressive with its large stones that remind of the temples’ entrances, while a cross etched on the side is, clearly, a votive left by a pilgrim. The name of the cave though is inspired by a galley similarly carved on the stone (not easily visible in the photo), which, as it was common practice in the 17th and 18th century, might have been a humble votive of a sailor or traveller saved by the perils of the sea thanks to what was perceived to be divine intervention.

The Cave of the Galley

Among the most impressive finds along the trail is an ancient apiary, marked as belonging to the Punic-Roman period. Malta was known since antiquity for its honey of supreme quality and, according to some scholars, its name itself – in Latin, Melita – derives from the root “mel” (i.e. “honey”). Although there were many apiaries on the island, this one stands out with its artistic design, arches, and stones polished to perfection. One should remember here that Malta, as a whole, is a sand- and lime-rock in the middle of the Mediterranean, its geological essence turning into the building material used for all construction since time immemorial. I was told that, while underground, the rock is soft as butter, and hardens up when exposed to the air. Because of the quality and abundance of the famous Maltese stone, one can find numerous ancient structures, carved through the aeons to fulfil the needs of each civilisation that settled for a while on this rugged dot.

The Punic-Roman apiary.

As soon as one passes the apiary, one falls under the shade of an enormous carob tree – the only shade, apart from the caves, available on the trail. This is the oldest carob tree on the island (over 1,000 years old), Malta’s pride, and a remnant from the Punic era (Punics were the ancient Carthaginians who succeeded the Phoenicians in the Mediterranean, and, it is believed, they introduced the carob trees on this land). The fruit of the carob tree is mostly used to feed the animals, make carob syrup, or obtain an extract used in the ice cream production. In case of dire need (like the famine of WWII), or a newly introduced dietary fashion, carobs are also consumed by humans, occasionally in delightful recipes. Interestingly enough, the carob seeds were used in antiquity as a reliable measure to calculate the mass of gold, hence the word “carat”.

The ancient carob tree.

Next to the tree, there is another burial cave and a few cave-lodges with stone-walls to separate the compartments.

Ancient tomb cave.

Ancient adobes.

Inner compartments carved in the stone.

Once one reaches the top of the hill, the trail flattens, and some signs lure the traveller away from the main road, in search of new treasures.

The view on the bay from above.

We first pass by a Punic tomb: the only one in the area, possibly because – as the respective sign informs us – the Phoenicians and the Carthaginians preferred to use the existing temples and caves for their burial needs before digging their own. The specific tomb consists of a rectangular shaft leading to a chamber which, apparently, is beautifully constructed with astonishing precision. However, I did not venture inside as the entrance path was somewhat precarious.

The entrance of the Punic tomb (with my shadow on the left!)

A few steps away, there is a cluster of cave dwellings supported by a farmer’s hut built almost as an extension. The shelter has been recently reconstructed, using the original stones and design. One notices the bench outside the house, the alcove on the inner walls, the water duct, openings in the rocks to fasten ropes that would secure the animals inside, and the external staircase leading to the roof which was used for the drying of clothes or fruits and vegetables.

The farmer’s hut from above (the external staircase and the roof are visible).

The bench next to the entrance door.

An alcove on the wall.

Hole to fasten the door or an animal.

The nearby caves are an intriguing example of a primitive accommodation that was used, surprisingly enough, up to the 1930s. It possibly dates to the Punic era, when it served as a burial ground, but later it turned into a humble adobe, its ample space divided by rubble walls to create smaller compartments for the family. The channels carved in the rock to direct the rainwater away from the dwelling and towards an impromptu well are an ingenious detail.

The entrance of the dwelling caves.

Inside the dwelling caves.

A cluster of Neolithic tombs encountered a few steps further up gave the Xemxija hilltop the distinction as “one of the most interesting corners of the island”. These tombs, developed by the people of the Temples (that is, more than 5,000 years ago), are elaborately cut into the rock and possibly played a significant role in a civilisation whose religious beliefs were based on fertility cults and ancestor worship. The dead were buried in a crouch position (symbolically resembling that of a fetus in a womb), surrounded by jars with grain and water (needed for the spirit to survive) and pottery lamps lit as a sign of respect.

Prehistoric tombs.

Exploring the tombs.

Our final find is a large granary that, apparently, dates to the prehistoric times and is further proof of a substantial settlement perched on this hill. Later, this large pit dug into the rock turned into a cistern for the collection of water, given the fact that Malta does not have any rivers and water had always been a precious commodity. One can still see the aperture cut into the rock for the bucket to go through.

The ancient granary (notice the opening for the rope of the bucket).

Although the trail so far had not been long, I had already spent almost two hours just exploring the treasures found on the way and was forced to return due to prior commitments. Thus, I did not visit the rock-hewn Roman baths, as well as a very well-maintained set of cart ruts: those prehistoric marks on the rock which, archaeologists believe, were made by carts but whose function remains a mystery because of the lack of any animal hooves’ imprints or because of their inexplicably abrupt cut-off point. I guess these sites are to be explored the next time I visit the island, which will undoubtedly not delay much.

Photo credits: © Konstantina Sakellariou.

If you find encouragement, comfort, and beauty in my writing or you learn through my adventures something new about our world, I invite you to support my labour of love by becoming a sustaining patron through a recurring monthly donation that can be as low as 1 USD per month up to the cost of a light lunch. Please visit my Patreon page for more details. If you are already supporting my work, thank you from the bottom of my heart!