The ancient guard of the citadel
On the southwestern side of Corfu, between Agios Matthaios village and the beautiful Korissia Lagoon that stretches next to the sea separated only by a narrow strip of land, there are the remains of Gardiki Castle: one of the most prominent Byzantine fortifications on the Ionian islands. Built during the 13th century, most probably by the rulers of the Despotate of Epirus (a state established by some of the Byzantine families that fled Constantinople after 1204), the castle was one of the three central defence structures that protected Corfu in the pre-Venetian era – the other two being Angelokastro on the northwest, and Kassiopi Castle on the northeast.
The citadel follows a rough octagonal design, with a gate that still stands solid and eight square-shaped towers which are decaying fast. Some parts are decorated with rows of tiles, as was customary in Byzantine architecture, and others have incorporated fragments of ancient structures found in the land. Besides its strategic gravitas, the location has a broader archaeological significance, since, in the nearby Grava Cave (which is surprisingly difficult to find despite the numerous fingerposts), remnants from the upper Paleolithic period have been found, dating to 20,000 years ago when Corfu was still connected to the mainland.
The signage towards Gardiki Castle is amble but almost lost amongst the cacophony of signs advertising hotels, rooms-to-let, and taverns, which ultimately overshadow the monument. At the end of March, I found the fortification in a state of desolation, devoid of any human presence, and engulfed in the silence of the olive groves. The inner side of the castle was overtaken by wilderness and decorated with millions of yellow flowers carpeting the grass, so much so that a couple of benches, withered away by the elements and overwhelmed by nature, looked more like art installations rather than areas destined to be used by people.
The most spectacular and touching detail, though, was the ancient olive tree that stands as a guard next to the citadel entrance. Its gnarled trunk, twisted by time, resembles a knight who, despite age and wounds, still boasts enough strength and stamina to protect the remains of a civilisation that has faded today into the realm of legends. The tour around the castle was interesting but sitting under the shadow of the old olive tree was priceless and, perhaps, the most meaningful moment of my visit.
Photo credits: © Konstantina Sakellariou
