The rock-hewn pools of Malta
As an island, Malta boasts a handful of sandy beaches – too few and too crowded for my Greek standards – and a long, mostly rocky coastline frequented by bathers in search of some space and privacy. Among these options, the series of rock-hewed pools lining up by the modern hotels and promenade of Sliema almost pass unnoticed, perhaps mistaken for a natural formation. And yet, they represent one of those delightful, lesser-known details that add further colour to a destination that, anyway, overwhelms a newcomer with the richness of its heritage.
The pools are known as “the Roman baths”, but they are not ancient structures. Instead, they most probably date to the Victorian era, when Malta was under the British dominion, and, to a degree, portray the character of the landed gentry that was keen to combine leisure and luxury with seclusion.
Malta is a sand- and limestone dot in the Mediterranean, its rock so unique, friendly, and malleable that it represents, for millennia, the sole construction material. The rough edges of the coastline have been smoothed away by the constant cuddling with the sea, forming flat areas of some comfort; yes, this was not enough for the British upper class. With their sophisticated lifestyle, they introduced swimming and sunbathing as healthy leisure activities. At the same time, based on their conservative upbringing, they insisted on safeguarding their privacy, especially for the women, so they carved up private spaces close to their houses on the, otherwise, public coast.
The pools were hewn in the soft stone, a few stairs facilitating the entrance, and a narrow opening connecting with the sea. Around them, one can still see holes for the poles on which fabric shields were hoisted for protection against the sun or the curious passersby.
Today, these formations melt away under the relentless fondle of the sea and the increasing pressure from the city’s concrete that further reduces the coastal friction against the waves. Unappreciated by most visitors, their stories disintegrating over time, they are in peril. Still, thanks to their shallow depth and clear, calm water, they remain inviting and are often used as a safe playground by families with children.
Photo credits: © Konstantina Sakellariou
